Climbing Wall Instructor

The AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program has been piloted since April of 2007 in Colorado, Massachusetts, and North Carolina. Seven courses have run to date with more scheduled for 2008 as the program gains momentum. Over thirty students participated in the initial courses which were used to evaluate the concept of a climbing-wall-specific certification. The courses were well-received by the students and were quite successful. The first course to train future CWI providers will be offered at the 2008 Climbing Wall Summit in Boulder, Colorado. The course will be taught by AMGA President and Certified Rock and Alpine Guide John Bicknell.

AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Certification Program

The course is two and one half days in length, a minimum of 20 hours of instruction, skills demonstration, and evaluation.

The course addresses the basic technical skills necessary to manage an instructional program at a climbing facility, and will address the following general topic areas:

Client orientation and instruction
Teaching general climbing skills including movement
Teaching top-rope and lead belaying techniques
Equipment and facility use
Rescue and emergency procedures

At a minimum, training for candidates shall occur in each of the following technical competency areas. Candidates shall possess sufficient knowledge, demonstrate skills, and/or demonstrate teaching ability in each competency area (if appropriate to the topic) in order to successfully complete the course.

Certification Program Goals

To increase the level of professionalism in indoor climbing in the USA
To improve the level of climbing wall instruction in the USA
To develop a more consistent standard of care for climbing instructors in the USA in the following areas:
- client orientation and instruction
- teaching general climbing skills including movement
- teaching proper belaying techniques
- teaching proper leading techniques
- teaching proper rappel techniques
- teaching proper equipment care and use
- proper facility use, care, and inspection
- rescue and emergency procedures
To evaluate the skills of climbing instructors in the USA
To provide guidance for further professional development

Certification Program Outline

Pre-requisites for Certification

18 years of age (persons 16 to 18 may take the course and will receive a letter of completion of the course, if completed successfully).
At least one year documented personal climbing experience (a minimum of 20 outings climbing indoors and/or outdoors).
Current first aid and CPR (a minimum of American Red Cross Basic – 5.5 to 6.5 hours) and current CPR.

Movement*

Climbing ability: 5.8 top rope and 5.7 lead on artificial structures
Movement demonstrating calm, confidence, good position, balance, solid base of support, no falls, and general body awareness
Ability to demonstrate a controlled fall, both on a rope and bouldering

* The course can be audited by anyone unable to climb because of physical limitations. A letter outlining the areas passed will be issued.

Equipment and Facility Care, Use, and Inspection

Demonstrate the proper care, use and inspection of personal climbing equipment, including but not limited to: shoes, harness, belay devices, carabiners, rope, cordage, and slings
The candidate possesses adequate knowledge of routine facility inspection practices according to the manufacturer’s instructions and employer’s policies and procedures
Assess the physical condition and set up of the climbing facility and take appropriate corrective actions based on this assessment

Belaying Skills

Demonstrate proper use of locking carabiners for climber belay rope attachment
Tie and evaluate a figure eight knot for climber belay rope attachment
Proper set up of belay system using an “auto-locking” or “auto-assist” belay device (e.g. a GriGri or a Cinch) and a tube or plate type belay device
Perform an effective top rope belay using an “auto-locking” or “auto-assist” belay devices, and a tube or plate type belay device, demonstrating proper: technique, position, control, and communication
Perform an effective lead belay using an “auto-locking” or “auto-assist” belay device and a tube or plate type belay device, demonstrating proper technique, position, control, and communication
Criteria for effective belays (all criteria must be met):

proper configuration and use of the belay device according to manufacturer’s instructions
ability to properly feed rope through the device
maintaining the brake hand on the rope at all times
ability to brake at all times
demonstrate an appropriate behavioral reaction to fall (i.e. the belayer must reflexively react to break a fall -- even if stressed, surprised, fearful, etc.)

Perform an effective self-belay

Orientation and Instruction

Ability to conduct a thorough patron orientation covering inherent risks of climbing, personal responsibility for risks and safety, and facility rules
Ability to teach proper use of climbing equipment according to manufacturers instructions: harness, locking carabiner, tube or plate type belay device, “auto- locking” or “auto-assist” type belay device
Ability to teach proper use of an auto belay device (e.g. MSA RedPoint Descender)
Ability to teach basic movement skills
Ability to teach tying a figure eight knot for climber belay rope attachment
Ability to teach basic rope management skills
Ability to teach proper belay skills and technique for top roped climbing

Using an “auto-locking” or “auto-assist” belay device
Using a tube or plate type belay device
Belaying directly from the ground anchor system using an auto-locking or locking-assist belay device (not appropriate for all facilities)

Ability to teach proper belay skills and technique for lead climbing:

Using an auto-locking or locking-assist belay device
Using a tube or plate type belay device

Bouldering and Spotting

Ability to teach proper falling techniques
Ability to teach proper spotting techniques, both stationary and moving
Ability to select and use appropriate impact attenuating surfaces for bouldering

Rescue and Emergency Procedures

Perform or provide for appropriate technical rescue in a timely manner:

Belay escape from tube or plate type belay device
Attachment and ascent using an “auto-locking” belay device for a pick off rescue

Ability to activate facility emergency procedures if and when necessary
Ability to record and report required factual information pertaining to emergencies